RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT:
HOW SWEET IT IS
Greensboro eatery combines local food, cozy comfort

by Danielle Jackson

Renee Schroeder has always been a foodie. Growing up in a household that raised its own livestock and grew its own produce, she learned early on where food came from and how much was involved in bringing it to the table.

Chef Tara Davis

SPRING FOR A SANDWICH

by Chef Tara Davis

The days are finally getting longer. I don’t know about you, but I’m beginning to shake off the winter doldrums. With all of the spring cleaning and yard work that goes on this time of year, I find little time to spend in the kitchen. When in this frame of mind, I try to maintain a simplistic approach to cooking.

Recently, I’ve been making a lot of sandwiches. They might sound pedestrian and dull, but if you take some classics and add your own spin, a quick easy meal is readily prepared. I assure you, a cheesy Croque Monsieur served with a lightly dressed salad and a glass of cold Sancerre can be pretty romantic.

My friends give me a fair amount of flak because I pack my husband lunches each day. His colleagues, however, give him a lot of longing gazes and order requests. Some days it’s leftovers, but many times it will be a sandwich. One of his favorites during the spring and summer is my chicken salad. I take a roasted chicken — this is a breeze if you buy one from the grocery store or use leftover meat — and add plump red grapes, toasted walnuts, and a lot of fresh herbs. I don’t use too much mayonnaise, and I add a good amount of lime juice to brighten up the flavor. This salad is great on its own, in a wrap, or served on a bed of greens or a toasted Kaiser roll. This is a sandwich that he never seems to tire of, which is good because it yields enough for six to eight servings. It would be a nice thing to serve at a luncheon or during afternoon tea.

I’m also a big fan of the toasted sandwich. In my opinion, there are no better examples than the French bistro standard — the Croque Monsieur — and the Italian panini. When I was in college, I was lucky to study in Paris. While there, I ate my way through many of these ham and gruyère sandwiches. I guess you could say that they conjure up good memories; whenever I make them, I feel happy. While the ingredients are simple, this is not your typical ham and cheese. In France, they’re offered at all meals because of their versatility and universal appeal.

There’s another version called a Croque Madame that’s topped with a fried egg and makes a delicious breakfast. When making this, I like to use a really good, full-flavored, Black Forest ham. I then add some grated nutty gruyère and a little Dijon mustard to the bread. Once the sandwich is assembled, I lather a thick coating of béchamel — or classic white sauce — and more shredded gruyère, then broil it until the cheese is bubbling and golden. I can’t emphasize enough how good this is. It’s wonderful to make for a crowd because you can put the sandwiches together ahead of time and then finish them at the last minute.

I was given a panini press as a wedding gift, and it gets a lot of use. For those without one, two pans work just as well to make this Italian-style pressed sandwich. I love that you can constantly change ingredients to come up with new and satisfying flavors. One of the most common paninis I make includes fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers, artichokes, basil and soppressata. There’s not much to preparing this aside from slicing the cheese and rubbing some garlic on each side of the bread. Simply place it on the grill and press for five to eight minutes. What begins as a simple, cold amalgam of meat, cheese and vegetables is transformed into a warm, crunchy yet gooey panini.

This spring, I urge you to give your knives, pots and hands a break. Cook up these sandwiches the next time you’re in the mood for minimal effort with delicious, comforting results. And hopefully you’ll never think of the poor old sandwich as dull again.

Tara Davis is a personal chef and cooking instructor based in Chapel Hill. An active member of Slow Foods USA/Triangle and a supporter of the local farm-to-table movement, she frequently offers group cooking demonstrations through her company, The Studious Chef. To learn more, visit www.studiouschef.com.

Croque Monsieur
(makes four sandwiches)

For the Béchamel:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup milk
1/4-teaspoon ground nutmeg
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the Croque Monsieur:
8 slices rustic French boule or Italian bread
1/2-pound Black Forest ham
1 pound gruyère, grated (Swiss, emmenthal or a favorite cheese can be used as well)
4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

To make the béchamel, melt butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Once butter is melted, whisk in flour. Cook for about 2 minutes until mixture smells slightly nutty and color is a pale blond. Add nutmeg. Gradually and constantly whisk in milk, making sure that no lumps form. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat and simmer until thickened, or approximately 10 minutes.

On a clean surface, place four slices of bread in a row. Spread each slice with about a teaspoon of mustard. Place a few slices of ham on each, and top with half of shredded gruyère. Top with remaining slices of bread. Spread the top of each sandwich with béchamel, then sprinkle each with remaining cheese. On a lightly greased cookie sheet, broil sandwiches for eight to 10 minutes or until cheese is golden and bubbling.

Roasted Pepper and Artichoke Panini
(Makes two panini)

4 slices rustic Italian bread, such as focaccia or ciabatta
1/2-pound fresh mozzarella, sliced thin
1/4-pound soppressata (salami and prosciutto also can be used)
1 small jar marinated artichokes
1 roasted red pepper, sliced into strips
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing on sandwiches
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 garlic clove, halved
6 leaves fresh basil
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

Expand your wine palate this decade with some new, lesser-known varietals.
photo: Zeto

THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX
A fabulous decade for wine adventurers

by Despina G. Demetriades and Su Peterson

We’ve all explored the more familiar grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. But in 2010, it’s time to pop out of the wine cocoon. Launch into the new decade with exciting wines produced from less-well-known grape varietals.

Tantalizing whites
Traditional Sauvignon Blanc lovers should try a Spanish blend of two white grapes: Vieura — also called Macabeo — and Malvesia. Ostatu Rioja Blanc, which has 90 percent Vieura and 10 percent Malvesia, delivers a clean taste with flavors reminiscent of white grapefruit with droplets of fresh apricot.

For those favoring Pinot Grigio, a nice Chenin Blanc fits the bill. Recommendations include sustainably farmed Ken Forrester “Petit” Chenin Blanc from South Africa, which shows ripe melon flavors and accents of green apple and a little squeeze of honeysuckle; and certified organic François Pinon Vouvray Cuvee Tradition from France’s Loire Valley, which fills the palate with complex, delicious flavors of quince, hints of citrus zest and apples, honeysuckle notes, and a crisp acidity. This outstanding, artisanally produced Vouvray will age through the decade — if you can hold onto it that long.

If you prefer a crisp, drier, medium-bodied white, then enjoy the taste of the Grillo grape, found in a Feudo Disisa Grillo from Sicily. This wine, aged in stainless steel, has no oaky flavors but releases pure, clean, fresh flavors of white peach, wisps of white flowers, and a hint of mint.

Another delightful, dance-on-your-palate white wine comes from France’s Languedoc region. Made from 100 percent Picpoul grapes, Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet Cotes de Languedoc introduces another dimension to the white-wine world. Floral aromas bring the lips to sip this crisp, light-bodied wine with pear, lime, and peach flavors accented with mineral notes. It’s especially satisfying for spring and summer.

From Spain’s Ribeiro area comes a special white blended from Treixadura, Godello, Loureira, Torrontés, Albariño, Lado and Albilla grapes. Try Viña Mein Ribeiro, a beautifully balanced, fresh, expressive wine that has flavors of lemon zest, ripe grapefruit, and melon.

Chardonnay lovers should give a full-bodied Viognier like Surh Luchtel Viognier Fortunati Vineyard/Oak Knoll District/Napa Valley a try. This handcrafted wine releases mouthwatering aromatics with focused flavors of apricot and ripe peach followed by a note of white pepper, leading to a soft, spicy finish. Also try the Angove Nine Vines Viognier from South Australia. Unlike the Surh Luchtel, the Angove has subtle oak notes in its pineapple and peach flavors.

Take a less-traveled wine path with rosés to enrich your wine experience. Getariako Txakolina Ameztoi Rubentis takes a medal for being one of the most unusual and intriguingly luscious rosés. Made with Hondaribi Zuri and Hondaribi Beltza grapes from more-than-150-year-old vines, this lively rosé has a hint of effervescence with generous light strawberry and ripe cherry flavors.

Luscious reds
For a nice red wine, try Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda from Mendoza, Argentina. This variety packs dark blueberry, blackberry, and black cherry flavors with hints of black raspberries and soft tannins. Fermented in stainless steel, it has no oaky flavor.

For an easy-to-sip red at a reasonable price, try the Altano Douro from Portugal. Made with 70 percent Tinta Roriz and 30 percent Touriga Franca grapes, this smooth red has a full body with flavors suggesting crabapples, black cherries, and plums with brown spices.

Another good choice is D. Ventura Pena do Lobo Ribeira Sacra, which is made by a small, family-owned winery in Galicia, Spain. Produced from 100 percent Mencia grapes, this red exhibits ripe, dark, berry fruit flavors with cherry accents, then finishes with a blackcurrant note.

For the rare experience of drinking a 100 percent Petit Verdot from Bordeaux, France, enjoy a glass of Ballast Stone Petit Verdot. Rarely bottled by itself, this impressive wine presents the palate with violets and spicy red fruit, then carries through the end with a full, rich, soft tannin finish.

Sant’ Evasio Brachetto d’Acqui D.O.C.G., produced from Brachetto grapes, is a slightly effervescent yet delicate, sweet red that has a low alcohol level. Its aromatic bouquet conjures images of roses and moss. This succulent Brachetto should be chilled and can be served for dessert, as an aperitif, or on its own.

Go out, taste some new wines and bring these new reasonably priced varietals home to enjoy (all but the Francois Pinon Vouvray Cuvee and Surh Luchtel cost less than $20 per bottle). Make it a fabulous decade of wine adventures.

Despina G. Demetriades and Su Peterson are co-owners of Zeto, a wine and cheese shop in Greensboro. To learn more, call (336) 574-2850 or visit www.zetowines.com.